NORTH TO ILOCOS of Manila
The northwestern part of Luzon island, far beyond the congestion of Manila, is home to cool
mountain highlands, beach areas to rival the southern islands, and well preserved indigenous
traditions.
There is a rugged symmetry to Ilocos that sets it, and its people, apart from others in the Philippines. The land of northwestern Luzon rises from the South China Sea to rocky bluffs, behind which a slim, arable strip of land is tucked under the towering Cordillera Mountains. Within this narrow confine lie the Ilocano provinces of La Union, Ilocos Sur, and Ilocos Norte.
Lingayen Gulf and Baguio
Amid the flat plains of Pangasinan, the lone over-burdened highway northward splinters into a half dozen roads, one of which leads west to Alaminos and the Hundred Islands National . Facilities are rudimentary, but the day-long banca boat rides among the tiny islands in this area make it worth a visit. Bring plenty of water and items to shade you from the tropical sun.
On the other side of Lingayen Gulf sits Agoo-Damortis National Seashore Park, where iron deposits colour the sands almost black. The Museo de Iloko (Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm; donation), in the old Presidencia of Agoo, houses artefacts of Ilocos culture.
As the highway makes its way into the rolling hills of southern Ilocos, the first province along the way is La Union, where the sea begins to glint behind the palms. There is a lively resort in the beach town of Bauang, where you can join American military retirees, and sun-seeking European budget travellers, for a drink at the Bali Hai Beach Resort’s friendly.
Nearby San Fernando 3 [map] is awash with colour on market day: loud gourd hats from up north, burnished earthenware and bright blankets line the stalls and shops. Overlooking it all is a dragon-encrusted Chinese temple. Six km (4 miles) to the north, a tiny surfing community has formed along Monalisa Beach.
Inland from La Union is the bustling mountain city of Baguio , more or less the gateway to Luzon’s highlands if coming from the Manila area. If you are travelling further north to the mountains, it is the last stop for modern amenities such as banks and hotels, shopping malls and international restaurants.
Traditionally, the main visitor’s area in Baguio has been Session Road, a lively stretch of bookstores and coffee shops. Today, however, the huge SM shopping centre that sits atop the highest peak in the city draws more visitors, and though it is a mall, it is an open-air architectural achievement that is worth a visit. The converted US military base, Camp John Hay, is equipped with a golf course, picnic areas and green spaces that are lacking in the rest of the city.
Back along the coast and a few kilometres inland sits Naguilian, the basi-making capital of the Ilocos. Basi, the local Ilocano wine, is a fermented sugar-cane concoction, coloured with duhat bark. Have your headache pills handy if you overdo it. Not far from Baguio, the small town of La Trinidad allows visitors to pick their own strawberries, and offers the same northern arts and crafts available in Baguio for a fraction of the cost.
Ilocos Sur
The narrow province of Ilocos Sur extends northwards along the coast. In some places, the Cordilleras range extends right down to water’s edge. Because the land is ill-suited for agriculture, most people in Ilocos Sur have turned to trade and handicrafts, and each town in the region seems to have its own specialty. In San Esteban, there is a quarry from which mortars and grindstones are made. San Vicente, Vigan and San Ildefonso specialise in woodcarving, importing their raw material from the mountain provinces. Skilled silversmiths work in Bantay. Other towns make saddles, mats, brooms and hats. Sisal and hemp-fibre weaving are household industries everywhere.
The first town along the National Highway is Tagudin , where a sundial built by the Spanish in 1848 sits in front of the Municipal Hall. The next, San Esteban, has a round stone watchtower built by the Spanish to keep a lookout for Moro pirates, and attractive Apatot Beach.
The small burg of Santa Maria is distinguished by a centuries-old church perched atop a hill, which served as a fortress during the 1896 revolution and now stands as a national landmark. Nearby are the Pinsal Falls, pools of water within rocks that resemble giant feet – the legendary footprints of the Ilocano giant, Angalo.
Vigan
A living repository of Spanish architecture and Filipino culture, Vigan 6 [map] was the third Spanish city to be built in the Philippines, in 1572, following Cebu and Intramuros, in what is now Manila. The Cathedral of St Paul, built in 1641, is at the heart of the city, and stretching out in front of it is Plaza Salcedo, an elliptical plaza with the Salcedo Monument and a towering bell tower. Across the plaza to the west is the Ayala Museum (Tue–Sat 8.30–11.30am, 1.30–4.30pm; charge), also called the Burgos House, with an exhibit of dioramas depicting the Philippine revolution of 1896–8.
The most notable attractions in Vigan are the old ancestral houses in the former Mestizo District, known as Vigan Heritage Village, south of St Paul’s along Mena Crisologo Street. Each building in the district has been lovingly preserved, and many now house antique shops, bakeries, and craft shops. Other Vigan attractions include the Crisologo Memorial Museum (Sun Fri 8.30–11.30am, 1.30–4.30pm; free) on Liberation Boulevard, with its eclectic collection of art, old photographs, pottery and other memorabilia maintained in a somewhat ramshackle building. Stop at RG Potter, at the southwest end of Liberation Avenue, where the famous Ilocano jars, or burnay, are made for storing vinegar and basil. Walk back into the kiln area to see one of the best examples of a Chinese dragon kiln anywhere in the world.
Outside of Vigan, the church in Bantay features Philippine earthquake baroque with Gothic influences. Its belfry, a few metres away from the church, was used as a lookout for Moro pirates. Further north, in Magsingal, the Museum of Ilocano Culture and Artefacts has a collection of early trade porcelains, Neolithic tools, weaponry, baskets, and old Ilocano bead wear.
Ilocos Norte
Unlike its poorer cousin to the south, Ilocos Norte is rich in timber, minerals, fisheries, and agriculture. In the small town of Paoay sits one of the most famous churches in Ilocos. It is a successful hybrid creation of the strong features of ‘earthquake Baroque’ (such as massive lateral buttresses) with an exotic Asian quality, reminiscent of Javanese temples. Built of coral
blocks at the turn of the 18th century, its bell tower served as an observation post during the Philippine revolution and was later used by guerrillas during the Japanese occupation. Paoay Church has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. Not far from the town is Lake Paoay where loom weaving is a major activity, producing textiles with ethnic Ilocano designs.
South of San Nicolas, back down the National Highway in Batac, is the mausoleum of Ferdinand Marcos and the house in which he grew up. The museum (variable opening hours; charge) remembers the achievements of the longtime ruler of the country, who is still popular in his home province. Across the bridge from San Nicolas is the capital of Ilocos Norte, Laoag. This city has become a popular tourist destination for visitors from Taiwan, less than an hour’s plane ride to the
north. A popular casino and international standard resort, called Fort Ilocandia, offers water sports, cultural shows and a relaxing, upscale beach area.
Further north, Pagudpud on Bangui Bay has been called the next great beach area in the Philippines, and is said to rival Boracay in terms of beach quality. The beaches here are beautiful, but perhaps not quite as stunning as those of their famous counterpart to the south. The facilities in Pagudpud are fairly basic, but for those who want to escape the highly developed beach areas of Boracay and Cebu, this is a quiet alternative. Saud Beach Resort is a good place to start with a cold
drink to get your bearings, but plenty of other smaller resorts are in the area as well. Many of the resorts are family run, and don’t yet have a website.
mountain highlands, beach areas to rival the southern islands, and well preserved indigenous
traditions.
There is a rugged symmetry to Ilocos that sets it, and its people, apart from others in the Philippines. The land of northwestern Luzon rises from the South China Sea to rocky bluffs, behind which a slim, arable strip of land is tucked under the towering Cordillera Mountains. Within this narrow confine lie the Ilocano provinces of La Union, Ilocos Sur, and Ilocos Norte.
Lingayen Gulf and Baguio
Amid the flat plains of Pangasinan, the lone over-burdened highway northward splinters into a half dozen roads, one of which leads west to Alaminos and the Hundred Islands National . Facilities are rudimentary, but the day-long banca boat rides among the tiny islands in this area make it worth a visit. Bring plenty of water and items to shade you from the tropical sun.
On the other side of Lingayen Gulf sits Agoo-Damortis National Seashore Park, where iron deposits colour the sands almost black. The Museo de Iloko (Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm; donation), in the old Presidencia of Agoo, houses artefacts of Ilocos culture.
As the highway makes its way into the rolling hills of southern Ilocos, the first province along the way is La Union, where the sea begins to glint behind the palms. There is a lively resort in the beach town of Bauang, where you can join American military retirees, and sun-seeking European budget travellers, for a drink at the Bali Hai Beach Resort’s friendly.
Nearby San Fernando 3 [map] is awash with colour on market day: loud gourd hats from up north, burnished earthenware and bright blankets line the stalls and shops. Overlooking it all is a dragon-encrusted Chinese temple. Six km (4 miles) to the north, a tiny surfing community has formed along Monalisa Beach.
Inland from La Union is the bustling mountain city of Baguio , more or less the gateway to Luzon’s highlands if coming from the Manila area. If you are travelling further north to the mountains, it is the last stop for modern amenities such as banks and hotels, shopping malls and international restaurants.
Traditionally, the main visitor’s area in Baguio has been Session Road, a lively stretch of bookstores and coffee shops. Today, however, the huge SM shopping centre that sits atop the highest peak in the city draws more visitors, and though it is a mall, it is an open-air architectural achievement that is worth a visit. The converted US military base, Camp John Hay, is equipped with a golf course, picnic areas and green spaces that are lacking in the rest of the city.
Back along the coast and a few kilometres inland sits Naguilian, the basi-making capital of the Ilocos. Basi, the local Ilocano wine, is a fermented sugar-cane concoction, coloured with duhat bark. Have your headache pills handy if you overdo it. Not far from Baguio, the small town of La Trinidad allows visitors to pick their own strawberries, and offers the same northern arts and crafts available in Baguio for a fraction of the cost.
Ilocos Sur
The narrow province of Ilocos Sur extends northwards along the coast. In some places, the Cordilleras range extends right down to water’s edge. Because the land is ill-suited for agriculture, most people in Ilocos Sur have turned to trade and handicrafts, and each town in the region seems to have its own specialty. In San Esteban, there is a quarry from which mortars and grindstones are made. San Vicente, Vigan and San Ildefonso specialise in woodcarving, importing their raw material from the mountain provinces. Skilled silversmiths work in Bantay. Other towns make saddles, mats, brooms and hats. Sisal and hemp-fibre weaving are household industries everywhere.
The first town along the National Highway is Tagudin , where a sundial built by the Spanish in 1848 sits in front of the Municipal Hall. The next, San Esteban, has a round stone watchtower built by the Spanish to keep a lookout for Moro pirates, and attractive Apatot Beach.
The small burg of Santa Maria is distinguished by a centuries-old church perched atop a hill, which served as a fortress during the 1896 revolution and now stands as a national landmark. Nearby are the Pinsal Falls, pools of water within rocks that resemble giant feet – the legendary footprints of the Ilocano giant, Angalo.
Vigan
A living repository of Spanish architecture and Filipino culture, Vigan 6 [map] was the third Spanish city to be built in the Philippines, in 1572, following Cebu and Intramuros, in what is now Manila. The Cathedral of St Paul, built in 1641, is at the heart of the city, and stretching out in front of it is Plaza Salcedo, an elliptical plaza with the Salcedo Monument and a towering bell tower. Across the plaza to the west is the Ayala Museum (Tue–Sat 8.30–11.30am, 1.30–4.30pm; charge), also called the Burgos House, with an exhibit of dioramas depicting the Philippine revolution of 1896–8.
The most notable attractions in Vigan are the old ancestral houses in the former Mestizo District, known as Vigan Heritage Village, south of St Paul’s along Mena Crisologo Street. Each building in the district has been lovingly preserved, and many now house antique shops, bakeries, and craft shops. Other Vigan attractions include the Crisologo Memorial Museum (Sun Fri 8.30–11.30am, 1.30–4.30pm; free) on Liberation Boulevard, with its eclectic collection of art, old photographs, pottery and other memorabilia maintained in a somewhat ramshackle building. Stop at RG Potter, at the southwest end of Liberation Avenue, where the famous Ilocano jars, or burnay, are made for storing vinegar and basil. Walk back into the kiln area to see one of the best examples of a Chinese dragon kiln anywhere in the world.
Outside of Vigan, the church in Bantay features Philippine earthquake baroque with Gothic influences. Its belfry, a few metres away from the church, was used as a lookout for Moro pirates. Further north, in Magsingal, the Museum of Ilocano Culture and Artefacts has a collection of early trade porcelains, Neolithic tools, weaponry, baskets, and old Ilocano bead wear.
Ilocos Norte
Unlike its poorer cousin to the south, Ilocos Norte is rich in timber, minerals, fisheries, and agriculture. In the small town of Paoay sits one of the most famous churches in Ilocos. It is a successful hybrid creation of the strong features of ‘earthquake Baroque’ (such as massive lateral buttresses) with an exotic Asian quality, reminiscent of Javanese temples. Built of coral
blocks at the turn of the 18th century, its bell tower served as an observation post during the Philippine revolution and was later used by guerrillas during the Japanese occupation. Paoay Church has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. Not far from the town is Lake Paoay where loom weaving is a major activity, producing textiles with ethnic Ilocano designs.
South of San Nicolas, back down the National Highway in Batac, is the mausoleum of Ferdinand Marcos and the house in which he grew up. The museum (variable opening hours; charge) remembers the achievements of the longtime ruler of the country, who is still popular in his home province. Across the bridge from San Nicolas is the capital of Ilocos Norte, Laoag. This city has become a popular tourist destination for visitors from Taiwan, less than an hour’s plane ride to the
north. A popular casino and international standard resort, called Fort Ilocandia, offers water sports, cultural shows and a relaxing, upscale beach area.
Further north, Pagudpud on Bangui Bay has been called the next great beach area in the Philippines, and is said to rival Boracay in terms of beach quality. The beaches here are beautiful, but perhaps not quite as stunning as those of their famous counterpart to the south. The facilities in Pagudpud are fairly basic, but for those who want to escape the highly developed beach areas of Boracay and Cebu, this is a quiet alternative. Saud Beach Resort is a good place to start with a cold
drink to get your bearings, but plenty of other smaller resorts are in the area as well. Many of the resorts are family run, and don’t yet have a website.
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