PALAWAN
The long, thin island of Palawan is one of Southeast Asia’s great adventure destinations, with wild
forests, remote and beautiful beaches and superb diving.
On the southwestern edge of the Philippine archipelago lies the elongated island province of Palawan, pointing towards northern Borneo to which it was once linked. More than anywhere else in the Philippines, this is nature in the raw, and for the intrepid traveller it’s a place that rewards exploration: there are magnificent stands of primary rainforest, some truly stunning beaches and great diving.
Puerto Princesa and around
Puerto Princesa , the regional capital and only large town, is the hub of travel for the area, with daily flights from Manila and at least three major shipping lines making regular voyages.
It is a pleasant enough place with some good restaurants and bars, but there is not a great deal to see; most visitors will only use it as a launch-pad to the rest of the island. The most noteworthy sights are the beaches and islands of Honda Bay to the north of town. Boat rides in the bay, with stops for snorkelling, are offered. Beyond Honda Bay, the coast some 50km (30 miles) from the capital has excellent beaches, with the most attractive being at Tanabag.
Tabon Caves
For those interested in the obscure pre-colonial history of the Philippines, check out the Tabon Caves, about 155km (100 miles) southwest of Puerto Princesa. The four-hour bus ride, and half-hour boat ride, ends in a fascinating complex of some 200 caves. In this area, human remains were found and carbon-dated to 22,000–24,000 years ago, the oldest traces of humans in the Philippine archipelago. Burial jars and kitchen utensils give a rare glimpse into the ancient life the country’s earliest inhabitants.
St Paul’s Subterranean River
In northern Palawan lies the province’s top tourist destination: the underground river in St Paul’s Subterranean National Park & . This is reached by travelling overland from Puerto Princesa to Baheli,
close to the west coast, 60km (40 miles) away, and proceeding on motorised outriggers or pumpboats for another two hours. Alternatively, travellers may want to base themselves at the attractive beach resort of Sabang, from where the caves can be accessed via a beautiful 2–3 hour jungle walk. Banca trips may be arranged for delving into St Paul’s cavern – a fascinating passage through a subterranean world of exquisite cathedrals with massive stalactites; icy lagoons where the eerie quiet is
occasionally pierced by shrill cries of swooshing bats; and cavewall formations that resemble a George Lucas film set. High-powered lamps handled by the expert cave guides illuminate the attractions. It is an exhilarating experience that can range from an hour-long incursion into the half-submerged bowels of the earth to an extended exploration of two to four hours.
North to El Nido
It is possible to take a banca from Sabang up the west coast to the beautiful jungle-surrounded beach resort of Port Barton, and from there all the way up to the far north. El Nido , close to Palawan’s northern tip, is known for its staggeringly beautiful scenery. The cliffs around are famous for their swiftlets’ nests, used by the Chinese to make bird’s nest soup.
The stupendous scenery has helped El Nido to develop as the most exclusive resort area in the Philippines. The El Nido Resorts on Lagen Island and Miniloc Island have their own landing strip and host a loyal group of international visitors, including celebrities, at their pristine, environmentally friendly resorts. Nearby Apulit Island is another highly regarded resort.
For divers, northern Palawan’s Coron Bay offers world-class wreck diving, and many dive shops and facilities. In September 1944, US reconnaissance planes spotted 24 tiny islands in the waters off Coron that appeared to be moving. The islands Japanese ships camouflaged in green leaves and shrubbery were sunk by a convoy of US Navy SB2C Helldivers shortly after. The wrecks have become historical underwater landmarks.
Another unusual site in northern Palawan, off the northern tip of Busuanga Island, is the rather remarkable Calauit National Wildlife Sanctuary on Calauit Island. Giraffes, zebras and various gazelles were shipped here in 1977 by arrangement between President Ferdinand Marcos and an African potentate. For a while the game preserve was rumoured to be a private shooting range for presidential son ‘Bongbong’ Marcos.
The Conservation and Resource Management Foundation, tasked with overseeing the sanctuary, has done such a good job despite occasional poaching by disgruntled former islanders that the African animals have prospered to help make the island a singular destination for photo opportunities.
INSIGHT: BEACHES AND RESORTS
The coastlines and islands of Southeast Asia are home to some of the world’s best beaches, with
sun and sand to meet every taste and budget.
Southeast Asia’s shorelines are well represented on any list of the world’s best beaches. The region’s waterfront areas are some of the world’s most diverse. One beach will offer exotic charm, the next one will have an all-inclusive family resort, the next will be a psychedelic backpacker enclave, and others will cater only to the ultra-rich.
Thailand is the king of Southeast Asian sun and sand destinations, with Patong, Phuket, being the region’s top beach area. Located less than an hour’s flight south of Bangkok, and with direct connections to many other cities in the region, Phuket is one of the world’s great beach scenes. Near Phuket, but less crowded and expensive, are the increasingly popular Phi Phi Islands.
Vietnam’s Nha Trang has a stunning beach, but the surrounding area is still experiencing growing pains if you can face down the vendors, it is a great, affordable beach experience. In Malaysia, Penang and Langkawi offer world-class facilities, as does Bali, which lives up to its global reputation as not only an excellent beach area but also a destination for arts and culture. In the Philippines, Boracay is the country’s most popular resort and, although it is hard to access and services can be patchy, it has many charms.
For those who are looking for beaches off the beaten track, Southeast Asia has many. Both the Philippines and Indonesia have enough remote beaches and deserted islands to satisfy the most demanding adventurer. In Thailand, a few islands such as Tarutao in the deep south, remain pristine and unspoiled, as do Cambodia’s southern beaches and islands. The most untouched area of all is southern (peninsular) Myanmar, but, for now, this remains largely out of bounds.
Dive Green
Southeast Asia is an outstanding dive destination. Not only does the region offer clear, accessible water and outstanding coral, it has (in most cases) modern, international-standard dive services at competitive prices.
Phuket in Thailand is a regional leader in diving. There are extensive, prime dive areas not far from shore, plus an abundance of dive shops competing for business. Any level of diver can enjoy themselves here.
In the Philippines, the Batangas area south of Manila is popular, as are the more remote islands of Coron and Palawan, as well as the Moalboal resort in Cebu. Further north, the World War II ships sunk in protected Subic Bay are a rare look at history preserved underwater. In Malaysia, parts of the east coast and the still-wild area of Sabah are prime dive spots, while Indonesia’s utterly spectacular underwater areas are concentrated off the islands of Sulawesi and Flores. Nha Trang is the
principal dive resort in Vietnam.
Forward-looking dive operators try to give something back to mother earth. Leading this effort is the Green Fins program, which has outlets in Thailand, the Philippines and Indonesia, and sets out environmentally-sound dive guidelines. The program provides a list of eco-friendly dive operators, as well as beach and coral clean-up programs.
forests, remote and beautiful beaches and superb diving.
On the southwestern edge of the Philippine archipelago lies the elongated island province of Palawan, pointing towards northern Borneo to which it was once linked. More than anywhere else in the Philippines, this is nature in the raw, and for the intrepid traveller it’s a place that rewards exploration: there are magnificent stands of primary rainforest, some truly stunning beaches and great diving.
Puerto Princesa and around
Puerto Princesa , the regional capital and only large town, is the hub of travel for the area, with daily flights from Manila and at least three major shipping lines making regular voyages.
It is a pleasant enough place with some good restaurants and bars, but there is not a great deal to see; most visitors will only use it as a launch-pad to the rest of the island. The most noteworthy sights are the beaches and islands of Honda Bay to the north of town. Boat rides in the bay, with stops for snorkelling, are offered. Beyond Honda Bay, the coast some 50km (30 miles) from the capital has excellent beaches, with the most attractive being at Tanabag.
Tabon Caves
For those interested in the obscure pre-colonial history of the Philippines, check out the Tabon Caves, about 155km (100 miles) southwest of Puerto Princesa. The four-hour bus ride, and half-hour boat ride, ends in a fascinating complex of some 200 caves. In this area, human remains were found and carbon-dated to 22,000–24,000 years ago, the oldest traces of humans in the Philippine archipelago. Burial jars and kitchen utensils give a rare glimpse into the ancient life the country’s earliest inhabitants.
St Paul’s Subterranean River
In northern Palawan lies the province’s top tourist destination: the underground river in St Paul’s Subterranean National Park & . This is reached by travelling overland from Puerto Princesa to Baheli,
close to the west coast, 60km (40 miles) away, and proceeding on motorised outriggers or pumpboats for another two hours. Alternatively, travellers may want to base themselves at the attractive beach resort of Sabang, from where the caves can be accessed via a beautiful 2–3 hour jungle walk. Banca trips may be arranged for delving into St Paul’s cavern – a fascinating passage through a subterranean world of exquisite cathedrals with massive stalactites; icy lagoons where the eerie quiet is
occasionally pierced by shrill cries of swooshing bats; and cavewall formations that resemble a George Lucas film set. High-powered lamps handled by the expert cave guides illuminate the attractions. It is an exhilarating experience that can range from an hour-long incursion into the half-submerged bowels of the earth to an extended exploration of two to four hours.
North to El Nido
It is possible to take a banca from Sabang up the west coast to the beautiful jungle-surrounded beach resort of Port Barton, and from there all the way up to the far north. El Nido , close to Palawan’s northern tip, is known for its staggeringly beautiful scenery. The cliffs around are famous for their swiftlets’ nests, used by the Chinese to make bird’s nest soup.
The stupendous scenery has helped El Nido to develop as the most exclusive resort area in the Philippines. The El Nido Resorts on Lagen Island and Miniloc Island have their own landing strip and host a loyal group of international visitors, including celebrities, at their pristine, environmentally friendly resorts. Nearby Apulit Island is another highly regarded resort.
For divers, northern Palawan’s Coron Bay offers world-class wreck diving, and many dive shops and facilities. In September 1944, US reconnaissance planes spotted 24 tiny islands in the waters off Coron that appeared to be moving. The islands Japanese ships camouflaged in green leaves and shrubbery were sunk by a convoy of US Navy SB2C Helldivers shortly after. The wrecks have become historical underwater landmarks.
Another unusual site in northern Palawan, off the northern tip of Busuanga Island, is the rather remarkable Calauit National Wildlife Sanctuary on Calauit Island. Giraffes, zebras and various gazelles were shipped here in 1977 by arrangement between President Ferdinand Marcos and an African potentate. For a while the game preserve was rumoured to be a private shooting range for presidential son ‘Bongbong’ Marcos.
The Conservation and Resource Management Foundation, tasked with overseeing the sanctuary, has done such a good job despite occasional poaching by disgruntled former islanders that the African animals have prospered to help make the island a singular destination for photo opportunities.
INSIGHT: BEACHES AND RESORTS
The coastlines and islands of Southeast Asia are home to some of the world’s best beaches, with
sun and sand to meet every taste and budget.
Southeast Asia’s shorelines are well represented on any list of the world’s best beaches. The region’s waterfront areas are some of the world’s most diverse. One beach will offer exotic charm, the next one will have an all-inclusive family resort, the next will be a psychedelic backpacker enclave, and others will cater only to the ultra-rich.
Thailand is the king of Southeast Asian sun and sand destinations, with Patong, Phuket, being the region’s top beach area. Located less than an hour’s flight south of Bangkok, and with direct connections to many other cities in the region, Phuket is one of the world’s great beach scenes. Near Phuket, but less crowded and expensive, are the increasingly popular Phi Phi Islands.
Vietnam’s Nha Trang has a stunning beach, but the surrounding area is still experiencing growing pains if you can face down the vendors, it is a great, affordable beach experience. In Malaysia, Penang and Langkawi offer world-class facilities, as does Bali, which lives up to its global reputation as not only an excellent beach area but also a destination for arts and culture. In the Philippines, Boracay is the country’s most popular resort and, although it is hard to access and services can be patchy, it has many charms.
For those who are looking for beaches off the beaten track, Southeast Asia has many. Both the Philippines and Indonesia have enough remote beaches and deserted islands to satisfy the most demanding adventurer. In Thailand, a few islands such as Tarutao in the deep south, remain pristine and unspoiled, as do Cambodia’s southern beaches and islands. The most untouched area of all is southern (peninsular) Myanmar, but, for now, this remains largely out of bounds.
Dive Green
Southeast Asia is an outstanding dive destination. Not only does the region offer clear, accessible water and outstanding coral, it has (in most cases) modern, international-standard dive services at competitive prices.
Phuket in Thailand is a regional leader in diving. There are extensive, prime dive areas not far from shore, plus an abundance of dive shops competing for business. Any level of diver can enjoy themselves here.
In the Philippines, the Batangas area south of Manila is popular, as are the more remote islands of Coron and Palawan, as well as the Moalboal resort in Cebu. Further north, the World War II ships sunk in protected Subic Bay are a rare look at history preserved underwater. In Malaysia, parts of the east coast and the still-wild area of Sabah are prime dive spots, while Indonesia’s utterly spectacular underwater areas are concentrated off the islands of Sulawesi and Flores. Nha Trang is the
principal dive resort in Vietnam.
Forward-looking dive operators try to give something back to mother earth. Leading this effort is the Green Fins program, which has outlets in Thailand, the Philippines and Indonesia, and sets out environmentally-sound dive guidelines. The program provides a list of eco-friendly dive operators, as well as beach and coral clean-up programs.
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